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| The North of England - Celebrating Urban and Rural Life |  |
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Similarly the urban scene here is equally varied. From the quaint stereotypically English country villages of Cheshire to the magnificent Victorian architecture of industrial Manchester, Liverpool and Leeds, and from somewhat tacky but fascinating seaside resort towns like Blackpool to historical cities such as Chester - dating back to the Roman occupation, the variety is remarkable. In the North it’s possible to breathe in the splendid tranquility at the summit of a lonely mountain and to sample the electricity and awesome intensity of a world-class football game in one day. Sadly many visitors to the U.K. bypass or travel too quickly through the North on their journey from London through the Home Counties and the Midlands to Scotland. While the north may possess some rundown and depressed urban areas, these are far outnumbered by attractions and places that will be of universal appeal. Like many other countries England is full of regional bias; the people of the south have some disdain for the north (and vice versa) and sometimes unintentionally dissuade outsiders from paying a visit there. Good travellers will judge for themself and take the time to make acquaintance with an area and form their own opinions. Contrary to what others may say, history, literary landmarks, fine buildings, nature and scenery, culture, sporting events and great entertainment can all be experienced in England’s North. Getting There Apart from the three London airports, the U.K.’s alternative airline gateway is at Manchester. Manchester Airport is increasingly becoming an important international gateway and transfer point. There are direct flights here from all major European centres, many cities in the U.S.A. and Canada, and from Asia and Australia. The added advantage of Manchester Airport is that it is directly linked to the rest of the North by an efficient rail service and the airport is much less congested than the other major British airports. To reach the North from other parts of the U.K. there are frequent train services to all major and most of the smaller cities and towns. The expansive network of National Express also keeps the North well linked by bus to the rest of the country. Renting a car can be advantageous, particularly if a visit to the more remote country areas is planned. For travelling in larger cities it’s best to leave private vehicles in the suburbs and switch to public transport. Climate The temperatures in the North are slightly cooler on average than the south of England. Warm sunny days are still very common though. Winter weather tends to be wet and windy as in the rest of the U.K., and snow is always a possibility though it is rarely on the ground for long. In areas of a higher elevation the cold weather and amount of snow can be more extreme. In peak and mountain areas some roads are closed for the winter. However bright sunny winter days are often the case.
The golden rule when travelling here is to always bring rain protection, good waterproof shoes and sweaters for warmth, no matter what time of year a visit is planned for. However in summer, it is equally important to bring clothes for warm weather. Featured Attractions The United Kingdom has a plethora of castles, palaces and stately homes. The latter are usually the houses that belonged to the owners of the huge country estates that were given to favoured courtiers of the monarch in the Middle Ages. Though many still exist in whole or part, a lot of the estates have been broken up and sold or donated to preservation societies, in particular the National Trust. The stately homes are expensive to maintain and as a way of keeping the homes and their precious contents viable, they have been opened to the public. Since the end of World War II the number of such places opened as visitor attractions has increased dramatically and visits to stately homes now form a very significant part of the U.K. tourism industry. One of the finest stately homes to visit is Castle Howard at Malton in North Yorkshire, around 24 km from York. This place achieved international celebrity when in the 1980s it was used for the filming of the TV series Brideshead Revisited. The attractive honey-coloured Castle Howard is set on magnificently landscaped grounds, the architecture of the actual building is simply awe-inspiring and its interiors are also remarkable. The Earl of Carlisle commissioned the home, and construction commenced in 1700. The house was designed by Nicholas Hawksmoor and the then relatively inexperienced Sir John Vanbrugh an army captain and playwright who was acquainted with the Earl through London’s Kit-Cat Club. Hawksmoor had worked for Sir Christopher Wren (who had redesigned much of London after the Great Fire including St. Paul’s Cathedral) and his experience combined with Vanbrugh’s influence, drive, and creative flair made a great combination. The central cupola probably inspired by St. Peter’s in Rome is the focal point of the Baroque home and the whole estate itself. It reaches over 25 metres high and can be seen for miles around. The interior consists of a great hall that is so vast that it seems almost ecclesiastical in design; this leads into single storey wings that contain the principle rooms of the house. Among the notable furniture, ceramics and artwork are some impressive paintings, including Holbein’s superb portrait of Henry VIII that is one of the most well known images of the notorious king. Walking around the impeccable terraced grounds is as enjoyable as visiting the house itself. The gardens and park have lakes and bridges and two very interesting buildings. The first of these is the Mausoleum designed by Hawskmoor - consisting of a circular chapel with a classic colonnade and capped by a flat dome, with a family crypt below. The other building is the Temple of the Winds, designed by Vanbrugh as a summerhouse, and admired for its Ionic porticos and lantern dome. Two beautiful rose gardens one traditional and one modern - cap off the very appealing grounds of this wonderful stately home. The City of York is one of England’s most popular tourist destinations and one of the most well preserved ancient cities in Europe. Its medieval walls from the 13th and 14th Centuries are still mostly intact; a highlight of any trip here is the one-hour circuit of these walls. The walls have four gigantic gates known as bars. The narrow streets are known as gates, the even narrower alleys are known as snickets or snickleways. Today all over northern England many people refer to an urban alley as a “snicket.” York’s history goes back to Roman times when it was a garrison called Eboracum. In turn it then was a Saxon (known as Eoforwic), Danish (Jorvik from which the name York was derived) and Norman settlement, a fashionable Georgian resort on a par with Bath and then in Victorian times a booming railway centre. It is also home to the Rowntrees Company another of Britain’s famous chocolate and confectionery manufacturers. Like Cadbury’s in Birmingham, the original founders were Quaker and were pioneers in providing good working conditions and other benefits to their employees. Within the walls of York lie many of its attractions, so a lot of things can be easily visited on foot as they are so close together. Just as well because York - inside the walls - is traffic free, making it a great place for visiting without the hassle of vehicles and fumes, or having to find a parking place. If driving to York, park the vehicle at a 'park and ride' on the outskirts and take a shuttle bus into the centre. The premier attraction in York is undoubtedly it magnificent cathedral - York Minster. The Minster is the largest medieval church in Northern Europe and is particularly noteworthy for its amazing stained glass windows. The colours of these windows are remarkable and are amongst the best to be seen. The Tudor Rose Window in the south transept contains wonderful blue and ruby red colours. The North Transept Window dates back to 1250 installed shortly after construction on the great church began. This window consists of over 100,000 pieces of grey tinted glass called grisaille, understated perhaps but still incredibly beautiful. In contrast the Great East Window is very colourful and the oldest intact stained-glass window in the world. It was made in the early part of the 15th Century and depicts the beginning and end of the world as portrayed in the biblical books of Genesis and Revelations. The colours are awesome, and this window (about the size of a tennis court) is definitely the part of the cathedral that remains in everyone’s memory. Also well worthwhile is the rather arduous hike to the top of the central tower. This offers a spectacular view of the city and the surrounding area, but should only be undertaken by those with a reasonable level of cardio-vascular fitness. Another of the better-known attractions in York is The Shambles. This medieval street was originally named for the slaughterhouses that used to be its main feature. You can still see the butchers’ hooks in the beams of the buildings. Although touristy it nonetheless is unique and picturesque. The street is so narrow that it would be almost possible with outstretched arms to touch its buildings on either side. Today’s Shambles is filled with interesting antique shops, bookstores and galleries all housed in timbered buildings that seem to bend at very precarious angles. The effect is most attractive and provides a totally old world experience. In Britain’s golden age of the railway, York prospered as the headquarters of the long departed North Eastern Railway. This railway heritage is well reflected in that York is the home of Britain’s National Railway Museum. This place is well worth a visit even for somebody who has no interest in trains. The models, memorabilia and posters are fascinating, but it’s the steam locomotives themselves that are the high point here. By far the most impressive thing here though is the beautifully streamlined locomotive The Mallard (whose 1938 speed record has never been matched), this wonderful example of engineering at its most aesthetic will entice any visitor. The museum is housed in an old railway station, and as well as the locomotives visitors can visit railways coaches including Queen Victoria’s royal saloon. In an annexe it’s also possible for visitors to observe the restoration process on the museum’s latest additions.
The Lake District is also known as the home of famous English romantic poet William Wordsworth. Thousands visit the Lake District each year to see various sights that are associated with this poetic genius. Wordsworth House in the community of Cockermouth is impressive. In the beautiful village of Grasmere it is possible to see Dove Cottage, Wordsworth’s home for many years, and the Wordsworth Museum. While in Grasmere be sure to sample some of the excellent local gingerbread that is sold here. At the small village of Rydal near to the very attractive tourist centre of Ambleside, it is also possible to visit another Wordsworth home Rydal Mount. Obviously lakes constitute an important feature in the attraction of the Lake District. A Lake Windermere Cruise is certainly a great way to sample the magnificence of this area. On a sunny day cruising the lake is a truly idyllic experience and even when it’s raining, the misty clouds and soft muted colours of the land bordering the lakes make a Windermere cruise an essential element of any trip here. The Lake District has a variety of towns that are all worth visiting. The lakeside town of Bowness-on-Windermere is full of nice shops from the elegant to the slightly tacky, some great resort hotels and interesting restaurants. For children Bowness is home to The World of Beatrix Potter, a great distraction on a rainy day, and is appealing to all those who were raised on the works of this world famous children’s author. The nearby town of Windermere, named for the lake itself is similar but quieter. Hawkshead is another attractive rural town that is quintessentially Lake District and lies between Lake Windermere and the lovely Coniston Water. Hawkshead has several attractions of significance to Wordsworth and Beatrix Potter. The Lake District also has a couple of frequently overlooked county towns. Both these are great for purchasing equipment for hiking or climbing the local fells and mountains. Kendal the county town of Westmoreland, is constructed largely of grey stone and has great shopping and some places of interest. These include the ruined Kendal Castle that was once claimed to be the birthplace of Catherine Parr, the only one of Henry VIII’s wives to outlive him. Whether or not she was born there, it is almost certain that she spent time at the castle. Kendal is also the home of the world famous Kendal Mint Cake a large tablet of strongly mint flavoured confectionery that has been endorsed by renowned explorers and adventurers for generations as a provider of energy. Kendal Mint Cake is totally unique. Many visitors purchase this for sustenance while climbing or hiking in the area. Choose between white and brown varieties. Keswick is a classic market town in what was originally the county of Cumberland, now united with Westmoreland to form Cumbria. Keswick lies on Derwent Water arguably one of the most attractive of all the lakes. As well as a great variety of tearooms and bed and breakfasts, Keswick services the climbing and walking industry. All close to Keswick are the peaks of Helvellyn, Skiddaw and England’s highest mountain Scafell Pike. The beautiful lakes of Buttermere and Crummock Water are magnificent, relatively unspoiled and are also usually reached from Keswick. Like York, Chester is also a walled city, but Chester’s walls date back to the Roman era. Located in the attractive, largely rural county of Cheshire, south of the seemingly continuous urban sprawl of Liverpool, Manchester and Leeds, Chester is deservedly popular for visitors. Founded by the Romans and known as Deva, to walk the walls here is a remarkable experience. Once a great port, the River Dee upon which the city is located, gradually silted up and the ships moved to the then much smaller town of Liverpool in the 1700s. Chester has been a popular tourist attraction for centuries the first guide to the city was published in 1781. Chester is famous for The Rows, several streets consisting mostly of two-tiered lines of shops and offices connected by pedestrian walkways. Certain of the rows feature attractive black and white timbered buildings with a definite Tudor appearance. Some guidebooks even list them as such, and though the origins of the Rows probably date back prior to medieval times, in fact the actual “Tudor” buildings are clever Victorian reproductions. Nevertheless these buildings certainly have enhanced the attractiveness of the city. The Walls of Chester were first constructed around the year A.D. 70. This was to keep the Welsh (Chester is still very close to the border with Wales) out of the Roman fortress. Shortly thereafter the walls were reconstructed out of local sandstone. Over the years their position has been altered slightly, but since shortly after the English civil war of the 1600s, when they were rebuilt as a sort of promenade, they have been a major attraction in the city. A great introduction to Chester is to take a leisurely stroll along the two-mile (3.2 km)
For an interesting perspective as to how life may have been in Chester during Roman times, the Deva Experience will be of interest, particularly to archaeology buffs. This includes a ride in a recreated Roman galley (more fun than factual), a walk down a reconstructed Roman street and several audiovisual presentations. There is an interesting museum with some interesting archaeological ‘finds’ from the actual excavations of a Roman townhouse that take place on site. Perhaps the best thing here is the opportunity to witness this genuine ‘dig’ and to observe the clearly defined layers of different eras in Chester’s history. Chester Cathedral dates from Saxon times. It is unusual in layout and the current building has a lot of Victorian reconstruction but some parts date from around 1250. The 12th Century cloisters are largely unspoiled and history almost seems to seep from the stonework here. Lunch at the ancient Cathedral Refectory is considered one of the best values in Chester and certainly offers atmosphere. On a totally non-historical note, and yet perhaps Chester’s most appealing attraction is the wonderful Chester Zoo considered by many to be Britain’s finest and one of the largest. Chester Zoo has a lovely park like setting, with meticulously groomed gardens consisting of over 110 acres of simultaneously blooming flowers, and unusual shrubs and trees. Great care is given to ensure that the animals are kept in an environment as close to their natural one as possible. Chester Zoo is a leader in conservation and is noted for its fine collection of primates the best in Europe. There is a monorail and a waterbus that navigates the many streams and lakes of the zoo. These provide novel ways of seeing the animals up close. The zoo has many hands on experiences available for visitors that are very educational. A good selection of restaurants and eateries are here, helping making Chester Zoo a very suitable place to spend a half or even a full day. 
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